McCall's 5190

Details:

Lined fitted jacket with princess seams, flap pockets and sleeve band. Jacket has a few variations such as epaulets, peplum, back band and decorative edges.

Fabric: Olive cotton stretch twill

Pattern Alteration: My usual alteration is a FBA. I didn't do one this time because the finished garment mearsurement should have provided enough room in the bust area. However after trying it on I realized I could and should have done a FBA. I am not a fan of close fitting garments in the breast area. My work around for this problem is to leave the jacket open. I didn't put any type of closure on it.

This an easy pattern as long as you have some experience with putting in a lining. As you can see the lining doesn't extend all the way down to the sleeve edge it is attached to the sleeve band.

For the lining I chose a paisley print silk charmeuse with a mix of colors. This fabric is very soft and feels great against the skin.

I chose to add the back band but put a twist on it by using leather for the front piece and silk charmeuse for the back.

Back of jacket with the leather band. The leather is what you call a butter soft which made it easy to cut and sew together....

As for the pocket flaps I used leather also and lined the back with silk charmeuse. I top stitched along the upper edge to keep flap in place.

Close-up of leather pocket flap

Over all this was a easy pattern. The pieces fit nicely together. I didn't have any problems putting in the lining since I have some practice from the last jacket I made. If I was to make this again I will definitely do a FBA.

Leap Into Spring

It's March, the first day of spring will be here in 3 weeks and its time for me to start working on my spring wardrobe... The trench jacket a timeless classic that is a must have fashion staple....

M5225

Fabric: Tan stretch twill cotton
Lining: Paprika Silk Charmeuse

Pattern Description: Misses lined, semi fitted, double breasted jacket with different variations of collar, sleeve and length
Pattern Sizing: 8 - 16, I made a size 16, view A
Did it look like the photo/drawing? Yes, with the exception of the buttons. I only used 4 buttons. The pattern called for 9 buttons. I placed four on the left side and one on the right under the collar edge.

The instructions for this pattern were very straight forward. Simple and easy to follow. The jacket was a quick sew. When I got to the lining I really had to take my time. I followed the technique that's used in Jackets for Real People and it came out great.....

Lining

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I really enjoy sewing a pattern when I don't have to do too much alteration for a good fit. This was one I didn't need to make any alterations at all. The bust fit was perfect, the sleeve length was on point. My own design changes were to the collar. I used the lining fabric to make the under collar of the jacket so it matched with the lining inside. I also added brown leather piping to the front edge of the jacket. I stitched the button holes using a contrasting color that was similar to the lining.

Jacket on the wrong side

I love the collar of this jacket. It frames the neckline perfect. A closer view of the contrasting button hole along with the brown leather piping on the jacket front edge.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others: I like this pattern but one of this style coat is enough for me.

Conclusion: I recommend this pattern to all levels of sewers. For beginners I think the only challenge would be the lining but if you have a good book to refer too then this one should be a breeze to sew....